2.11.11. Lee Alexander McQueen, you will always be remembered. You will always be missed.
February 11th, 2011 § 3 Comments
One year to the day, and even with Lady Gaga’s tribute, it is still your day. You are still missed, your vision unparalleled.
In an effort to properly honor this day, I bustled and struggled all week to get this dress done in time to wear to a fundraiser gala that my sister invited me to, which was held in San Francisco last night. Despite my lack of confidence in my sewing ability regarding the completion of this specific garment, I actually got it done, and I thought I even got it done fairly well!
Not without serious struggles, after about 60 hours worth of work and paired with my new favorite, everyday winter boots
The original:
After making my final dress for my pattern-making class last December, I felt like I had made a good start, but discovered that I still had a long-long way to go. Three completed muslins later I felt that I was ready to start the final piece. I decided to use a short-pile velvet for the red fabric, as I appreciated the drape and the way that the color compliments the print. Though, I found that once I got actually sewing it, it has a tendency to move around when paired with fabrics of alternate fiber. None-the-less, and I can’t believe I can actually say this, I did not have to rip out one single seam for this project.
One of the most difficult things for me was figuring out the proper way to angle the princess seam in at the waist, and have the red, side draped panel, fall properly. I must have drawn about 15 pattern pieces for the center front and princess side panels before getting so something that actually seemed like it would work out right. Luckily, Thunder was an excellent assistant on this project, even keeping my Bernina 450 carrying bag warm, and my new ironing board, that I am absolutely in love with, company
The absolute hardest part was draping the velvet side panels. Not knowing exactly how to solve the problem, I made the entire dress with a huge, huge amount of extra fabric attached to the princess panels, that would just fall to the floor. I sewed them in, and then I got out my pins and sheers. Somehow or another I managed to get it onto my dress-form, which doesn’t have collapsible shoulders. I felt frustration mounting after working for over an hour at trying to figure out how to get the right shapes in the right places. Somehow still patient enough—really, I think it was fear—I didn’t cut anything. Eventually, I did the adult thing—who knew I could do that?— and decided to just leave it alone, and come back to it later.
Wednesday, the following day, withing 30 seconds of touching the panels, it came to me, I started pinning, and within one hour the panels were draped properly, and, get this, sewn!I then spent one final hour stitching the rest of the lining into the last place it needed to go, by hand. Sitting quietly doing the hand work, I have to admit, that I really felt quite proud.
The dress with the draping completed, pinned, and sewing in progress:
Many stares, and a number of “discrete” pictures later I am forced to realize, again, just how hard, weird and completely amazing it is to wear this sort of thing in public.
Lastly, also in honor and tribute to Alexander McQueen, I decided that yesterday was the day to bite the bullet and buy the pink, snake-skin printed leather I have been eying for Months (with a capital M) for this look, pattern already in progress:
Like this:
Threaducation. Day 97.
December 4th, 2010 § 1 Comment
I’ve spent the last two nights at Eddie’s Quilting Bee taking an introductory class for my Bernina. I missed the first class, because I was an idiot, and didn’t bring all of the required supplies, ie. my Bernina. Overly adopting the personality of my hair color in stereotypical fashion leads to much embarrassment and feeling like, well, an idiot. So, I rolled over to the next class, and I am really glad that I went.
The first night was spent going over threads and needles, how they work and why they are different. Before the class I didn’t really think that there could be that much different between the tools, and, to be honest, I didn’t really even realize that thread came in different gauges. Sure, some of it felt thicker, and some thinner, but, it’s thread, right?
Thoroughly and well explained I now understand why you use a “jeans” needle on woven fibers, and a ball-point on knit fibers, and what the different numbers mean in regards to the fiber your working with.
First of all, the sizing gives both the US and EU sizing of the needle, and The larger the number the bigger the needle.
For Woven fabrics- ones that make a noise when pulled taught quickly
Shmetz Jeans Needle – Blue Tips
A “Jeans” needle is missleading, as it is for woven fabrics, not just denim. In fact, most “Jeans” needles you would not want to use on denim, as they don’t have the girth for the fabric. The number lable for the needle, i.e. 80/12, 100/16 not only refers to the size of the needle, but the higher the number the more open the weave of the fabric. So, for denim, canvas or linen, which you can clearly see the weave of the fabric, and because of the thickness/density of the fabric you’d want to select a larger needle, like a 100/16 or a 110/18. For general cotton, depending on thread count, you’d be safer in the range of an 80/12.
Shmetz Quilting and Topstitch – Green Tips for the quilting, The topstitch needles have no color on the flat shank.
Both of these are intended to go through several layers of fabric, and will require a thicker thread. The size of the topstitch needle is 100/16 and is intended for specifically that. While the needle is thicker, as indicated by the larger number (100/16), it also has a larger groove or scarf for the thread to be protected by as it goes through all of those layers of fabric.
Shmetz Microtext Needle - Top flat shank is purple
These are very sharp for woven fabrics, and are intended for very high thread count fabrics such as silk, satin,and taffeta. The sizes of these needles are 60/8, 70/10, 80/12
Shmetz Embroidery Needle - Flat shank is red
Intended for embroidery thread only. Embroidery thread is super thin allowing you to get more thread in one area. Often, you will use an embroidery thread through you needle and a thread of equal weight, but less expensive in your bobbin, as it appears on the underside of your piece.
Shmetz Metallic Needle - No color on the flat shank
Intended for use with metallic thread only, and it is specially designed to help protect the weakness of the metallic thread / work with, not against the flaws of metallic thread that allow it to break more easily.
Shmetz Leather Needle - No color on the flat shank
Used with leather, vinyl, or plastic. It has a coating, like Teflon to keep it from sticking. However, if a leather needle isn’t doing the trick on your leather you can get a titanium needle!
You’d also want to use one of these for sequins … gosh, would have been great to know that before.
Much more info, of course, on the Shmetz site.
For Knit and Stretch fabrics – ones that don’t make a noise when pulled taught quickly.
A needle that is too sharp will distort the fabric, as it will pierce holes in the fabric, causing it to deteriorate. Thus, a needle with a ball-point is used to “move” the fibers, instead of piercing through them.
Shmetz Stretch Needle – Yellow flat shank
Used on a more open weave knit, lower thread count.
Shmetz Ball Point Jersey
Used on a higher thread count, more closed weave knit
Universal Needles are neither really sharp nor ball-point round … they are in the middle, and can be used with woven and knit fabrics together, or on something like linen, with really big structure. They are the compromise needle when woven or knit needles aren’t appropriate.
And then there is … the Twin Needle! which are two needles, side by side on one shaft. You’ll need to be able to place to spools of thread, know how far apart you want the needles, what size you want the needles and if you are working with a woven or knit fabric.
So, onto the thread.
First off, you should be selecting a polyester or cotton (or other variety) of thread that coincides with the fabric you are using for the project. Don’t use polyester thread on a cotton fabric, as the fabric is weaker than the thread, and vice versa.
Unlike the needles, the higher the number of the thread, the more easily it will break and the thinner it is.
Cotton Threads
60/2 – This is a size 60, 2 ply thread. It is very thin, and can be used for really light seams, pin tucking, and on very light fabric.
50/2 and 50/3 are 50, 2 ply and 50, 3 ply. This is pretty standard for most garment sewing. 2 ply will be better to use, but 3 ply may be preferable for topstitching.
40/3 and 30/3 you’d want to use with a topstitch needle and on thicker fabrics
Polyester Threads
There are three types
1. Embroidery, 40/3
- use with 60/2 ply in the bobbin
2. All purpose
- Can’t use this on cotton because it is too strong for the fibers
- This will work on blended fabrics
3. Decorative
- Ok on both polyester and cotton fibers
So now, standing in front of the thread spools I feel … overwhelmed.
I don’t feel overwhelmed standing in front of the presser feet, though. On Thursday night we got to try out a number of different feet and features on our Bernina’s. Let me state again, just how freaking much I love my Bernina Aurora 450 !!!!!
At the end of the class Santa may have purchased these two:
1. Button Sew-On Foot #18
2. Ruffler #86
This thing is amazing, and looks like a locomotive engine on my sewing machine, which for some reason, I think is the most fantastic thing ever.
Thank you Santa! I see these coming to a stocking near me.
I am making really great progress on my final project for my patternmaking class, but now I will not be able to get any more work done over the weekend as I have other obligations, which also included staying up until 12:30 last night making bakes beans from scratch on the grill. In case anyone is wondering, it is, in fact, freezing outside. However, the bean recipe is so good that it makes our entire courtyard smell of yumminess.
I also attended a preview for the draping class next semester.
It seams like fun, but a lot of work. So I need to spend some time thinking about my priorities … maybe I should just take more classes at Eddie’s Quilting Bee since I learned so much there in so little time! If you have never taken the time to learn about your machine, I suggest you take a day off from sewing to do it!
Your Mother Isn’t Always Right. Day 58.
October 26th, 2010 § 5 Comments
A number of months back a fellow that I knew tried to explain that the day that you took an action that you knew your mother would want you to do, but you did it for you, not her, was the day that you became an adult. Really, only then? And how come your mother was never “right” before? Well, I have been listening to my mom for years, decades even, and for one simple reason. Why learn from your own mistakes, when you can just do the right thing, instead? Mom is always right. We all know this. This truth has never been proven wrong, and will never foreseeably be wrong, so what happened? How could I so daringly and blatantly state that your mom isn’t always right????
One word:
Sequins.
“As soon as you cut it, put it through the serger. Depending on how the sequins are sewing the the fabric, they may just come flying off.”
Well, the only things that went flying off were the two tips of my serger needles upon plunging twice into my beautiful sequin fabric.
I guess I should back-up some. First off, I finished my Halloween costume in one day, as promised. In-fact, it only took half a day, but I still have the head-piece and shoes to go, so in the end it will equal one day. Started and finished that on Sunday. Then, I decided that since I have my fancy-new block pattern that I should get the sequins off my wall, and onto, well, me! This piece is so simple, yet so complicated. I had to distill the block down into a one-piece front bodice and skirt with no darts, and a super low cowl neck back/skirt piece, and sleeves. That is a lot of moving around of critical shaping elements. A few yards of muslin later, I felt pretty satisfied, but it wasn’t until the trip to the grocery store to pick-up ice-cream for my mom that I had a construction epiphany. I finished the pattern and lining last night, leaving the sequins for today. A good day. My mom was here, of-course, until I started sewing.
The cutting went well, I extended the seam-allowances from my pattern 1/8″ for additional room while serging. Well, I serged, and that ended quickly. I started thinking that I was really regretting getting the sequins.
Before she left, I gave my mom a tour of the new Bernina. “Wow, this is a real, adult sewing machine. I have been sewing forever, but I have never had an adult sewing machine.” Upon experiencing needle-bits from my serger flying around the room—I think I need protective eye-wear—she encouraged me to try sewing it on my trusted and true Bernina. Starting slowly, hand turning the needle for the first few inches, I found that her advice the second time around was spot on. Maybe I just needed to listen for the construction alternative instead of just accepting the first route. See, she was right!
Beautifully maneuvered over and threw sequins, my solid Bernina got the job done, and just at the moment I was ready to give-up on the entire project, especially as it isn’t even a McQueen project, even though it is a McQueen Bumster tribute. Fancier that I was originally imagining, I need to find somewhere fabulous to wear this dress. All done but the hem. Oh, how I love the finishing. Next time I get the d200 and tripod set-up to take hallway pictures, I’ll take some of this dress on me, too, as it looks better on then on my lumpy, crappy, old dress-form.
Now, my sewing room looks like an ice-skating competition exploded in it. All that aside, I never thought I’d learn so much through sewing sequins, but with the pattern being a delightful, and welcome challenge, and the fabric itself pushing me into new spaces, I had a great time with this quick project, but I think it may be time to give the Roomba a new, dedicated home.
Last week, while I was being bad, busy, and not updating, I finished the back-side of my sweater dress, and I am now almost half way through the front side, just getting to the waist shaping.
Additionally I am making tremendous progress on my first ever crochet project (or as Ramon calls it a “crotch-ette” project), which is appropriately a monkey, for so many reasons.
I made my cheapest ever trip to JoAnns today—yes, even cheaper than getting one invisible zipper—I bought felt, for the face, and googlie-eyes. My mom forced me to get them, sighting that they are far better, and easier to use than making them out of felt or what-have-you, though also indicating that she *still* has the same jar of them laying around from my sister and my Brownie days in Girl Scouts.
Though, as I know she is right, she always is, I got the googlie-eyes, and I know they won’t let me down. Perhaps they’ll help me keep my eyes, and ears open for the right answer the next time around.
Now I just need to find new serger needles. Mom, care to chime in?
Don’t drop your yarn ball in the coffee. Day 36.
October 4th, 2010 § 1 Comment
Luckily it was only a little nubbin of a ball left anyway. Can’t complain though. I am on cloud nine because of my new Aurora, I finished a McQueen garment, and I made huge amounts of progress on Ramon’s Christmas sweater. Almost done with the front side, and half-way done with the back, I am really happy that I frogged it last week. I can tell it is going to be really nice when it is done, and it would have been a shame to have it turn out the wrong size.
Several friends have been quite appalled to hear that I un-did all of that progress. Dalyn went over ever reason she could think of about how to fix it and why I shouldn’t have frogged it as we drove to Nieman’s last Thursday for a boot party. Jeff wished I’d left it intact for him—maybe wouldn’t have been a bad idea, but I certainly couldn’t have Ramon and Jeff matching! I think that by the end of the week his sweater may be done—see, trying not to set expectations too high—and I have more yarn on the way for yet another project. I have been searching for this particular yarn that is hand-painted and hard to get your paws on. I found enough of it in Oregon, and was about to order online when I decided to call, just in-case. Sure enough they did have it, but oh how I love yarn people.
I made a trip down to my local yarn store on Friday, looking for a way to order this yarn. I wanted to try to get it through the local yarn-shop, because I adore them, and want to support their business. The yarn is made by Malabrigo, and while my yarn store carries some of their yarn, they don’t carry the type I want. Upon asking if they could order it for me, they said yes, but that it might be up to 6 months before I get it and I’d be best off ordering it online. 6 months? Do we have to wait for spring for the sheep to be shorn?
While looking around the yarn store, I may have found the right yarn for the blue Alexander McQueen fuzzy (Angora?) blue dress. I bought a ball and will commence testing it out after I finish Ramon’s sweater. What I found is Cascade Cloud 9. I love it, but not a lot comes in one ball, only 109 yards. I think that the dress may take around 2000 yards, and at eight bucks a pop that’s $152. Ouch, though less than what just spent on the Malabrigo. Gauge swatch to come.
On Thursday, after posting the Kitten Eating Yogurt on Two Legs video, I decided to take some Jeff advice and get down to the store to buy my lining. Last weekend while pouring wine, I whinned to Jeff a lot about not having my sewing machine. After explaining that the sewing lab is available but only for an hour and a half here and two hours there, he said that I needed to look at it like Project Runway, and just go in there and “bust the shit out.” Point taken.
My sewing helper. See how she is helping by sitting on my bag of sewing tools?
I got my wool and my lining cut, after agonizing in the store for an hour-an-a-half over the lining, and got into the sewing lab around 2. The machine I had made friends with, was of-course taken. I found my way to a little white Juki, and low-and-behold, it wanted to make friends, too! Feeling very happy and satisfied with my skirt and lining half-sewn and the brilliant greens and blues popping out from behind the black wool, I headed home at 4 to get ready to go to Nieman’s with Dalyn.
Delightful as always, I had a great time visiting the store of many beautiful things I cannot afford right now. I found some Manolos that are so freaking good I almost started crying. (See picture of fabulous shoes below, with my little Stuart Weitzman toes peaking out.) There was also an incident with a thigh-high Chanel boot made out of scooba material, somehow listed as leather. FYI, stretch leather and denim are not two great tastes that taste great together. Dalyn’s awesome personal shopper, Omid, know I will try ANYTHING on. He brought the boots to the ghost-town of a drink area where Dalyn and I were enjoying our cocktails. It took 5 minutes to get the thing half on, and another 10 to get it back off. Crying for help, Dalyn was literally crying from laughing. Best Nieman’s moment yet.
Makes me think that I need to work harder to find a job. I miss being able to buy these things.
After tossing the small bit of yarn that is now caffeinated, back to work on my very busy day. I really hope that I can find some time to squeeze in some sewing on my beautiful new Bernina!
Serviced, but never made back home. Day 35.
October 3rd, 2010 § 2 Comments
Big Kitty, who loves shoes as much as I do, has been just as anxious to get my sewing machine back as I have. (Yes, I know that is Ramon’s shoe, and not mine).
I was delighted when I got the call yesterday that my sewing machine was repaired and ready for pick-up. Ramon went with me today to bring that little puppy home. However, the sewing machine never made it.
I talked to Eddie for about two hours at Eddie’s Quilting Bee in Sunnyvale, where my machine was being fixed. As Ramon recommend, I asked his opinion on if my current “Bernina” was qualified to meet my needs. I told him what I was doing, re-creating 30 Alexander McQueen looks in one year to learn how to sew. Wide-eyed, he asked, “how many?” in shock and disbelief.
He took some time to show me some other machines, and I got to try them all out. I really, really, really wish that I had known about this place before I bought the first machine. However, as Ramon says, if I hadn’t have lost my job, I probably wouldn’t have discovered until way down the road that it wasn’t robust enough for my needs.
After testing numerous button holes, and asking a lot of questions I Ramon and I brought home this!
It may have cost more than my first and second cars, but it is less than Dalyn spent at Nieman’s during the Green Party a few weeks ago.
OMG, I am so happy I could pee my pants. I am actually so happy that I finished the wool skirt! Too late and too tired tonight to put it on in the hallway, I will do it tomorrow, and post the pics.
For now I shall tease the lining, which I love. I didn’t buy any in the city, which was a big mistake. I can only find acetate an polyester in the South Bay. So, I decided to go with something a bit more flirty and feathered because it tickled my fancy.
More to come on the beautiful Bernina Aurora 450 sewing machine and the many other goings on during the weekend soon. I’m pooped.
Instead of cutting wool, we’re eating Yogurt. Day 32.
September 30th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Still feeling bummed about frogging the entire panel of Ramon’s sweater, I haven’t gotten to cutting the wool, or going to the fabric store for the lining yet. Instead, I am contemplating something Ramon said last night, and little kitty and I are sharing some yogurt.
During dinner Ramon commented that I may have greater needs than my sewing machine can fulfill. What!?! *Still* waiting to get it back, he suggested that when I go in, I talk to the people there, since they are actually nice AND helpful, and get their opinion about my machine and its abilities to meet my great sewing needs. Ramon said to tell them about the project, and “really how much sewing you are, and are going to be doing over the next year. Julie, you may want to trade it in while it is still less than a year old, and in perfect working order. You may need something more robust.”
Why does that make me feel about as sad as frogging his sweater?
Back to the Beginning, Again. Day 26.
September 24th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Yeah. Hooray! Well, I knit myself back up to the point that I had to start frogging yesterday. I still have another inch to go before I can start knitting the arms into the body. For some reason I thought that I could get this sweater done in a week. I think this was contributing to my disappointment and lack of feeling inspired last night. This pattern is more tough than any other that I have followed—while it is easier than the pink sweater, as I created that pattern—so why am I setting really, really unrealistic expectations on myself? I mean, setting un-realistic expectations is normal for me, but lets try to use at least a little common sense here.
With the sewing machine gone, I will have all weekend to work on this sweater, and maybe get it done. (There, that is more realistic).
So, what happened to the sewing machine? Ramon was kind enough to spend an hour looking at it with great intensity, even after having one margarita at the Mexican place down the street. When you walk in, and they place your Margarita order for you, correctly, before you even get seated at your table, you can’t say no! Ramon concluded that there was a “Timing Issue” with the bobbin assembly and the needle. No Mom, it does not have a timing belt. Apparently it has no timing. So, I asked Ramon how it could be fixed, and he said “By using its warranty” with a sad face.
Well, the place I bought the machine from is full of rude sales people who, after buying my machine, insult it and say it is not a “real Bernina,” because it is part of the Bernette Series. So, I did not want to go back there. Instead I followed Nicole’s advice and went to a different place.
You know that sinking feeling you get when you realize that you have made a huge mistake? Well, that is the feeling I got when I walked into the new sewing machine shop. I realized that I should have bought my machine from them. Man, were they nice, helpful, and knowledgeable. They quickly moved my machine into triage, and the sewing machine surgeon came out, and identified that the problem is, in-fact, a timing issue (now you must imagine Ramon grinning like the Cheshire Cat). Upon explaining that I bought the machine on May 31st of 2010, the sewing machine doc reacted in pure shock. I guess this is uncommon for a machine that is so new. Silver lining?
And, most importantly, how long will it take to get the machine back? I was speculating 6-8 weeks, because what do I know. Ramon looked at me like I am crazy when I said this. The sewing machine guy said … drum roll please … by the end of the week!
By the end of the week, does that mean this week, or next week? The last time I was in a similar situation was when I pre-ordered my iPad+3g at the beginning of the year. As April began, Apple updated my online order to say it would ship at the “End of April.” On Thursday, April 29th, I called Apple to inform them that my order said it would ship at the “End of April,” and that it was in-fact the “End of April,” and that I was just extremely excited, could I please have my iPad? I got it the next day.
So, with the sewing machine out of commission I headed into the sewing lab for a while yesterday afternoon. I finished, and submitted my homework to my professor, who had completely forgotten our conversation from the day before when I explained that I may have Jury Duty next week, and wanted to turn in my homework early. She also used this as an opportunity to ask me if I had an previous sewing experience. I told her about my BFA from the Academy of Art, and that I taught there. She just started pointing with a European siren like “Ah” noise coming from her mouth.
Then, I did the unthinkable. I used the incredibly frightening industrial sewing machine to finish sewing the lining for my wool-blend test skirt. The very lining that broke my Bernina. Cheating? No. Scary. Yes! There are 22 steps to thread these son-of-bitches, and once you get them threaded properly they can still cause you a world of hurt in a fraction of a second. They have the ability to go really, really fast. The pedal is huge, and not very well modulated. In-fact, the pedal is VERY much like Ramon’s s54ti throttle pedal right now. Nothing happens in the first 90 percent, but in the last 10 it is incredible sensitive. These machines go so fast that if you are not careful they will break your spool and bobbin thread, break the needle and tear your fabric. Sounds like fun, huh?
Somehow I managed to make it through the lining with great success. Maybe it had to do with me being slightly less caffeinated for the experience and the afternoon. I planned ahead.
How to decide when you’re done with the project for the day. Day 24.
September 22nd, 2010 § Leave a Comment
When the sewing machine breaks. Probably a good time to stop.
Ok, I honestly don’t know what happened. I was sewing the lining of a skirt, and it is thin, as lining often is. Well, the corner got sucked into the feed dogs, and I pulled back out, and now the needle loop doesn’t pick up the thread from the bobbin (or as Ramon refers it is, with a faux German accent, the “boobin”). I called Ramon, and asked him to take a look at it tonight when he gets home. He says, “Well, you’ve sewed the shit out of that thing! You have put more than 30 years worth of fabric through that thing since you bought it four months ago.” Fair point. It is under warranty, so the call will be made tonight on whether Ramon can fix it, or it goes into sewing-machine repair land.
Oh sad day. I guess it is back to knitting for now.
Pictured: Where the problem in lays:
